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The Dinghy is...
For going ashore on beaches or docks where
tying up would be impractical or expensive
For quickly and safely reconnoitring an anchorage or the
nearby shores, especially if the waters are shallow
To run for provisions. The dinghy is
faster than the mother ship
To visit other boats or beaches and ferry
To entertain youngsters, using oars or the
motor as appropriate
For carrying a kedge anchor out and/or to set a stern anchor
or stern tie
To pull the boat off a bar by tipping
the boat to lift the keel and reduce draft. Carry the
spare anchor a distance away, drop and set it, then pull with the spinnaker halyard.
To pull the boat to safety if becalmed with
engine problems. It is amazing what that little outboard
To assist with retrieving a crew member
To make an emergency escape or run for help
To get away from your friends and family
Launching the Dinghy
When you first arrive on the boat, the dinghy may be stored on the
foredeck, with the outboard mounted on the pushpit.
We recommend that you keep the dinghy on the deck until you are clear
of the marina, and ask that you return it there when you are finished
unless instructed otherwise. Ask.
Sailing with the dinghy on deck can be problematic as the genoa sheets
may catch on it. If it is desired to carry the dinghy there on
a longer jaunt, it is possible to rig a spare line in a triangle from one stanchion
over the boom gooseneck and to the opposite stanchion to prevent the
genoa sheets from catching on the dinghy.
When the dinghy is on deck, it must be lashed down securely.
When untying the dinghy, pay attention to how it is lashed on board.
That will make it easier to lash it securely later.
To launch the dinghy, the dinghy should be lifted over the lifelines
by its painter, using the spinnaker halyard. Two people make
the job easier, but it can be done by one.
Make a loop knot in the painter about 8 feet
from the dinghy and attach the spinnaker halyard to it.
With one person guiding the dinghy and another
at the winch, lift the dinghy clear of the lifelines, then lower it
carefully while pushing it away from the boat
Make sure the halyard is not snagged on the
radar unit halfway up the mast. Also ensure the dinghy does not catch on the lifelines and
toe rail or scratch the boat as it lowers.
Once the dinghy is in the water, lead it
aft and tie the dinghy to
the port stern cleat. The starboard cleat is above the hot
exhaust from the Espar furnace and the hot exhaust fumes could melt the painter line
if it sags near the vent. Be aware of this hazard with slack dock lines, too.
Be very careful lifting the dinghy over the stanchions – dragging it
over the stanchions and lifelines can puncture the dinghy or damage
the lifelines and stanchions. Also be very careful
the transom of the dinghy does not scratch the foredeck and hatches
when inverted. When on deck, be sure to lash it down securely.
If you made mental notes or took a picture before you untied and launched
the dinghy, tying it down
again should be easy.
Mounting the Outboard
The dinghy can be quite handy with only the oars for short trips
ashore, but for longer trips or exploring, the outboard is quick and
Mounting the outboard on the dinghy requires some planning, a strong
person, and a capable assistant.
When moving the outboard from the pushpit
to the dinghy or from the dinghy to the stern rail, tie the dinghy
securely to the swim platform as shown at right (click to
enlarge) so that the dinghy cannot rock side to side or
Plan ahead and brief your helpers. Take your
Tie a safety line to the motor and to the pushpit
so that if the motor escapes your grip, it will not be lost, and
can be easily retrieved.
The safety line should attach to a strong
point high on the boat and have enough slack to permit free movement
while being moved, but be short enough that the motor cannot drop
into the water.
If you have a capable person to hold the safety line
and play it out as the outboard is lowered, so much the better.
the enclosure rear panel and remove it or push it aside so that you can reach the outboard and tilt
it inward. Then lift the outboard and bring it into the
cockpit. Do not attempt to do this task with the nearby
enclosure panels closed up.
You will probably need to rest
the motor on its bottom fin as you move it around. Be careful not to damage
teak cockpit sole, the teak swim platform
or the dinghy with the fin on the bottom of the outboard. Use the cutting board from the galley
or a folded towel as protection
for the teak if resting points will be required midway
between the stern rail mount and the dinghy.
! The outboard
will not start
or run unless the prongs of the red curly plastic deadman
(kill) cord are installed
under the purple button on the lower front of the motor
as shown at right.
curly cord should be in the nav station or nearby, along
with the keys for unlocking the motor and locking the
cable at night to prevent theft of the dinghy or motor.
Always attach the red deadman (kill) cord
to your wrist, ankle, or clothing before starting the engine and
keep it firmly attached while operating the dinghy.
The kill cord is required
to run the outboard for good reason.
More than a few experienced boaters have been killed
or seriously maimed by runaway dinghies. Don
't become one of them.
With a single occupant,
the dinghy can accidentally accelerate sufficiently quickly
when starting or bounce
enough when up and planing (at speeds up to 30 KPH) to throw an unwary operator over the stern.
Be especially careful and slow down when encountering wakes from
Not only is the deadman cord a safety feature,
but it locks the motor against casual theft if you think
to take the cord away with you.
Without the deadman provision, the
empty dinghy would either
continue on its course and not come back, or more
usually return immediately and run in tight circles
around the area -- and almost certainly run over the
deadman cord is properly attached to the driver, if the
driver falls from the boat the motor stops
immediately and the dinghy waits harmlessly nearby
for the operator to swim over and recover it.
Re-entering a dinghy from the water can be difficult.
If alone, you may have to crawl over the stern and then
bail the dinghy. This can be impossible for some
people without assistance, so think about this before
operating the dinghy or permitting others to do so.
If in doubt as to your ability to operate the outboard
safely, use the oars.
Always wear a PFD when in
the dinghy and make sure that the safety kit and oars
are in the dinghy. A floating handheld VHF can be a
useful safety item as well.
The outboard is supplied with a lock and
it is wise to use it. A 15-foot coated stainless steel cable
and lock is also provided to secure the entire dinghy to the boat or
dock, especially at night.
Although most boaters are honest and
thefts are unusual around Sidney, dinghies and outboards are
occasionally stolen. Be aware of your surroundings and keep an
eye on your belongings, especially items of value that could be
When going ashore and landing on a beach, check the tides in
advance and know if the tide is coming in or going out, and the expected
range. After an hour or two on shore, the dinghy may be a hundred
feet from the water -- or floating away -- if the water level has changed
by a few feet or more. Land at a floating dock if possible.
dinghy is equipped with Beachmaster wheels to make beaching the
dinghy and moving it up and down the beach easier.
here for an online demonstration video showing the wheels in
sure to place the gas tank forward in the dinghy as shown to distribute
the load and to prevent having the tank shift aft. Be sure to
strap it down.
The dinghy is very perky and planes up quickly with one person
on board, and more slowly with two or three. When using the outboard,
be aware that it accelerates very quickly when only one person is on
board and could throw and unwary operator over the stern. Be careful
about speeding in swells and chop as the dinghy will bounce.
Always remember to take the safety kit and oars.
All persons in the dinghy should always wear PFDs.
Always attach the deadman cord to
the operator, even for short trips.
Towing the dinghy
Remove or secure any loose items in the
Once underway, adjust the length of the towing
line periodically to provide the smoothest tow with the least resistance.
The exact position will depend on whether Cassiopeia is under power
or sailing and on wind and sea conditions.
Keep the line as short as practical while providing
a smooth and stable tow.
By pulling the dinghy in towards the boat
and and letting it back out, a distance will be found where the
dinghy is surfing on a stern wave and requires very little
energy to pull. (This may vary with cruising speed).
There is typically already loop knot in the
painter where others have found the 'sweet spot" and that loop
can be simply dropped over a stern cleat.
Be aware that a drifting dinghy can be a distraction
and a hazard when manoeuvring in close quarters.
Plan any approaches to docks carefully and
shift the dinghy tie to an appropriate location and shorten or lengthen
the line as indicated.
Have someone watch the dinghy as you dock,
or have someone cast off in the dinghy and bring it in
separately, especially where space is tight or wind and current
Be aware that, although the dinghy painter
is a floating line, that, while manoeuvring, suction from Cassiopeia's prop
it under and cause it to foul Cassiopeia's prop if a length of line lies in the water
near the boat.
Most cruisers in sheltered waters, tow the
dinghy with the outboard mounted, however there are some things to
keep in mind at all times.
aware, that the motor makes the dinghy more top-heavy and
that rough water or high winds can flip the dinghy with or without
the outboard mounted. Flipping and damage are more likely if
the outboard is left on the dinghy. If in doubt, remove the
outboard and stow the dinghy.
of the motor can also damage the dinghy transom in rough waters, and
the shaking can cause the motor screws to loosen allowing the motor
to shift or even drop. You are responsible for any damage.
If Towing with the Outboard Mounted on
Check the attaching screws regularly as they
Be sure to fasten down the gas tank and
oars as anything
in the dinghy will shift while being towed. The gas tank
should be forward for the best ride.
The outboard should be locked in the
"up" position so that the leg does not drop down and drag, slowing
progress and potentially damaging the outboard gears.
Be aware that a drifting dinghy with a motor
on it can scratch the boat or neighbouring boats while at dock and
be a distraction and a hazard when manoeuvring in close quarters.
Remember where your dinghy is at night and
be sure to lock it with the cable provided.
Running the dinghy under power any distance
without a passenger to hold the bow down can be uncomfortable since
a heavy driver must keep weight forward and twist his/her body
to see and steer. The steering ends to be touchy as well due
to the short boat and short tiller.
tiller extension (above) is kept in
a stern locker and
can be clamped onto the
outboard tiller to lengthen it to allow for better weight
distribution, a more comfortable ride, and
better steering control.
The instruction sheet for the tiller is to the
right. Click to enlarge.
The dinghy is a Rigid Inflatable Boat (RIB).
They have many advantages in terms of stability and floatation over
skiffs, but RIBs get soft over time, especially with weather
changes. Pumping up the RIB takes only a few minutes.
pump is kept in one of the cockpit lockers and is not exactly as
shown. There are three filler
ports on the dinghy, one for each stern section, and one for the
bow. Open each filler cover in turn, insert the pump fitting
and turn it until it seats. Pump until the section is firm,
then go to the next.
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While the information provided here
is believed to be correct at time of publication, errors are possible
and things may change, so readers should verify details before making important
| Saloon |
Aft Cabins |
- Plotter and Radar |
Marine Head |
| Manuals |
| Thoughts |